Cooking
Built-In Cooktop Repair for Islands and Counters
A cooktop set into the counter is its own appliance, separate from the oven below or beside it. We repair gas, radiant and induction surfaces in place, explain the fault, and give you a price to approve first.
Booking online? The cooktop model number in the form lets us check parts before we arrive.
Step one covers the appliance; step two, your contact details. We follow up to book the visit.
Three ways a cooktop makes heat
Gas cooktops use sealed burners with a brass or aluminum cap over a burner head. Turn a knob and two things happen: the valve opens, and a small switch on the valve stem signals the spark module, which fires every electrode on the cooktop together. Once the flame sits over the electrode, the clicking should stop on most models. Some high-end cooktops have automatic re-ignition, which relights a burner if it goes out.
Radiant glass cooktops hide a coiled ribbon element under the ceramic glass. An infinite switch or electronic control pulses it on and off to set the heat level, and a limiter built into each element cuts power when the glass overheats. Hot-surface lights stay on until the glass cools, so a light that never comes on is a useful clue.
Induction cooktops use coils under the glass to create a magnetic field that heats the pan itself. They rely on power boards, a cooling fan and sensors that detect a pan, so they have more electronics and fewer parts that wear physically. Downdraft cooktops add a blower that pulls smoke down and out through a duct under the floor or cabinets.
- Gas sealed-burner
- Radiant glass
- Induction
- Coil electric
- Downdraft
- Pro-style rangetops
Cooktop faults and what usually causes them
Every cooktop type fails in its own way. Find yours below.
- Gas burner clicks but won't light
- Burner cap misaligned, wet or clogged burner ports, cracked igniter, weak spark module
- All gas burners click nonstop
- Moisture in a spark switch after a spill, failed switch, shorted spark module
- Glass element won't heat
- Open element, failed infinite switch or relay, limiter tripped, loose wire at the terminal block
- Glass element stuck on high
- Welded contacts in the infinite switch or control relay
- Induction zone shows an error or won't detect the pan
- Pan not magnetic or too small, overheated power board, cooling fan failure, sensor fault
- Crack or chip in the glass
- Dropped pan, thermal shock, hot pot set on a wet surface. Stop using the cooktop.
- Downdraft vent won't rise or pull air
- Riser motor or switch failure, blower motor, filter clogged with grease
What you can check first
- On a gas cooktop, lift off the burner caps and heads, wash them, dry them thoroughly and set them back so they sit perfectly level.
- If every burner clicks after a spill, let the cooktop dry for a day before assuming a part has failed.
- For induction, hold a magnet to the bottom of your pan. If it doesn't stick firmly, the pan won't work on induction.
- Check the breaker. Electric and induction cooktops use a 240-volt double breaker; if half of it tripped, some zones may work while others don't.
- Clean the downdraft filter and check that nothing is blocking the vent's movement.
Safety first: Turn off the breaker before touching any wiring, and close the gas valve for a gas cooktop before removing burners or panels. If the glass is cracked, don't use the cooktop at all; a crack can let spills reach live parts. If you smell gas, leave and call 911 or your gas utility from outside.
When to book a cooktop repair
- A burner stays dark even with clean, dry, properly seated parts.
- A glass element won't heat or won't turn off.
- An induction zone gives an error with a magnetic pan.
- The glass is cracked or chipped.
- There's a gas smell or a burning odor from under the cooktop.
How a cooktop repair visit works
Cooktops are diagnosed from the top down. On gas, the technician watches the spark at each electrode, checks the gap and flame pattern, and confirms the spark module is getting power. On radiant glass, each element's resistance and its switch or relay output are measured, and the limiter is tested. Induction models go into service mode where the maker provides one, which shows stored errors and lets the fan, coils and pan-detection circuit be checked.
Many cooktops are held by clips and lift straight out of the counter; others are reached from the cabinet below. Glass tops and induction boards are specific to the model, so the model and serial number decide which one we order. You'll hear what failed and the cost, and nothing starts until you agree.
Deciding whether to repair a cooktop
Igniters, spark switches, spark modules, infinite switches and radiant elements are routine repairs that almost always pay off. A cracked glass top is often sold as a separate part, and on a mid-range or premium cooktop it's usually the sensible fix, because a new cooktop may not match the hole cut in your stone countertop.
Induction power boards are the costliest repair that comes up regularly. On a basic unit, a new cooktop can make more sense; on a Bosch, Thermador, Wolf or Miele, repair usually does. Downdraft motors and risers fall somewhere between. You'll get our honest opinion alongside the price.
Why book us for your cooktop
Gas, glass and induction
Spark ignition, radiant elements, induction electronics and downdraft blowers all fall within what we diagnose and repair.
Parts that fit your model
Glass tops, boards and switches are ordered by model and serial number, using manufacturer parts when they're available and telling you when they aren't.
Your go-ahead comes first
You'll see the diagnosis and the price, then decide. If a new cooktop is the smarter move, we'll say so.
See which Northern Virginia ZIP codes we serve, or request a cooktop repair.
Cooktop Repair for Owners, Renters and Landlords
Island cooktops are a fixture of many remodeled kitchens and newer houses from Arlington out to Ashburn, and the wiring or gas connection is usually reached from the cabinet underneath, so clearing it out before the visit saves time. Most gas models run on natural gas; if yours was converted to propane, mention it when you book.
How a Cooktop Repair Visit Works
Tell Us What's Wrong
Name the make, add the model number if it is handy, and describe the symptom. A picture of the label inside the door lets us check parts.
Diagnosis at Your Home
The technician tests the appliance along with its power, water, drain, gas or vent connections until the fault is confirmed.
A Price Before Work
We name the failed part and give you the cost of fixing it. Work starts only after you agree.
Repair and Check
The part is installed and the appliance is run through a cycle so you can watch it working.
Related Repairs
Other appliances, brands and service areas on the site.
Cooktop problems we fix
The full list of cooktop faults, from gas ignition to glass elements, induction boards and downdraft vents.
- Burner Not Working
- Uneven Heat Distribution
- Won't Ignite
- Control Panel Issue
- Gas Smell
- Cracked Surface
- Gas Burner Not Lighting
- All Gas Burners Not Lighting
- Constant Clicking When Not in Use
- Weak or Low Flame
- Yellow or Orange Flame
- Electric Burner Not Heating
- Induction Burner Not Working
- Glass Smooth-Top Cracked
- Glass Smooth-Top Scratched
- Burner Knob Broken or Missing
- Control Knob Loose
- Gas Valve Failure
- Spark Igniter Electrode Failed
- Element Switch Failure (Electric)
- Burner Won't Turn Off
- Hot Surface Indicator Not Working
- Gas Smell Without Flame
- Error Code on Induction Cooktop
- Induction Cooktop Not Detecting Cookware
- E7 / E Sensor Error (Induction)
- Dark Burn Spot on Smooth-Top
- Electric Element Glowing When Turned Off
- Induction Cooktop Buzzing Noise
- Flex Zone / Expandable Element Not Working
- Burner Not Reaching Maximum Power
- Grill or Center Burner Not Working
- Cooktop Requiring Specific Cookware
- Warming Zone on Cooktop Not Heating
- Heat Spreading to Adjacent Burner Area
- Downdraft Vent Not Working
- Surface Element Only Works at Full Power
- Radiant Element Cracked or Burned
- Igniter Clicking Randomly When Not Cooking
- Low Pressure on All Gas Burners
- Glass Cooktop Cracked from Thermal Shock
- Induction Displaying H After Cooking
- Surface Element Heating Intermittently
- Gas Burner Lighting Wrong Burner
- Cooktop Not Powering On
- Not Sure If Cookware Is Induction-Compatible
- Ceramic Cooktop Surface Difficult to Clean
- Cast Iron Grates Rusting
- User Reports Burning Even Though Induction Is Cold
- Gas Supply Hose Needs Replacement
- Induction Zone Display Flashing
- Cooktop Surface Permanently Stained
- Electric Cooktop on Wrong Voltage
Cooktop brands we service
From everyday GE and Whirlpool to Wolf and Miele: the common cooktop brands first, the rest after.
- Bosch cooktop repair
- GE Appliances cooktop repair
- Thermador cooktop repair
- Wolf cooktop repair
- Whirlpool cooktop repair
- KitchenAid cooktop repair
- Samsung cooktop repair
- Miele cooktop repair
Guides on cooktop problems
Cooktop Repair FAQ
Brief answers to what customers most often ask us. Don't see yours? Ask when you call, or add it to the notes when you book online.
Still have a question?
Get in touch with the brand, the symptom and, if you can find it, the model number. Some things we can answer right away; others need a technician in front of the machine.
Water, almost always. A boil-over or a wet sponge lets moisture into one of the spark switches behind the knobs, and because every igniter shares one module, they all click together. Pull the knobs off and let the cooktop dry for a day, or run a hair dryer on low around the knob stems. If the clicking continues once everything is dry, the switch or the module needs replacing.
Usually the glass can be replaced on its own, often with its frame, without buying a whole new cooktop. Stop cooking on it in the meantime and don't try to tape or seal the crack: spills can reach the elements and wiring below, and heat can spread the break.
Start with the pan: hold a fridge magnet to its base. If it doesn't grip firmly, or the pan's base is much smaller than the zone, the cooktop won't recognize it. Cast iron and magnetic stainless work; plain aluminum, copper and glass do not. If a pan that passes the magnet test still triggers an error, the sensor or power board may be at fault.
Yes, including the riser that lifts the vent, its switch and the blower. If the draw is weak, clean the grease filter first. If the vent won't rise at all, the motor, gears or limit switch are the usual suspects.
A cooktop is only the cooking surface, built into the counter. A range combines a cooking surface and an oven in one appliance.
Go to range repair →