Cooking
Fixing the Everyday Kitchen Stove, Gas or Electric
Stove is what most people call the freestanding cooker between their counters. On this page we focus on the burners and elements up top, where most stove complaints start, and how an ordinary gas or electric stove gets diagnosed and repaired.
Booking online? The stove model number in the form lets us check parts before we arrive.
Step one covers the appliance; step two, your contact details. We follow up to book the visit.
Know your stove before you troubleshoot it
Look at the top. Four or five gas burners under metal grates means a gas stove, and nearly all modern ones have sealed burners with electronic spark ignition. Exposed spiral metal coils that plug into sockets mean an electric coil stove. A smooth black or white glass surface is either radiant electric or induction; if a magnet sticks to your pots and the glass doesn't glow red, it's probably induction.
On a gas stove, turning any knob sends power to a spark module that clicks all the igniters at once. Each burner has a small ceramic electrode beside it, and the flame lights from a spark to the burner ports. Older stoves may use standing pilot lights instead, which stay lit and need occasional adjustment. On a coil stove, each element plugs into a receptacle and is controlled by an infinite switch that cycles power to set the heat. Glass-top stoves hide ribbon elements under the glass and use the same kind of switches or an electronic control.
The oven below a stove works exactly like any other oven, so bake, broil and self-clean faults are covered on our oven page. This page is about the cooking surface and the stove as a whole in an everyday kitchen.
- Gas with sealed burners
- Gas with standing pilots
- Electric coil
- Electric glass-top
- Freestanding induction
- Apartment-size 20 and 24-inch
Stove symptoms and where they lead
Most stovetop faults are either ignition problems on gas or power problems on electric. Here's how they usually break down.
- One gas burner won't light, others fine
- Burner cap sitting crooked, clogged ports, cracked electrode, loose igniter wire
- No burners spark at all
- Failed spark module, no power at the outlet, tripped GFCI, broken common wire
- Clicking won't stop after the burner lights
- Wet igniter switch from spilled liquid, failed switch, electrode not grounding properly
- Yellow or lifting gas flame
- Dirty burner, cap misaligned, stove converted to the wrong gas without the orifices changed
- Coil element won't heat
- Burned-out element, scorched receptacle, loose terminal, failed infinite switch
- Coil stays on high
- Infinite switch contacts welded shut
- Glass-top zone won't heat
- Open ribbon element, failed switch or relay, limiter tripped
Stove checks you can safely try
- Lift off the gas burner caps and the heads beneath, scrub them in warm soapy water, let them dry fully, then seat them back. A cap even a little off center won't light evenly.
- Clean clogged burner ports with a straightened paper clip or a stiff brush. Don't use a toothpick; it can break off inside.
- On a coil stove, trade the dead coil with a good one of matching diameter. If the problem travels with the coil, the coil is bad; if it stays at that position, look at the receptacle or switch.
- If all burners click after a spill, let the stove dry for a day.
- Check that the stove is plugged in and the breaker hasn't tripped, including the 240-volt breaker for an electric stove.
Safety first: Unplug the stove or turn off its breaker before touching any wiring or pulling a coil receptacle. Close the gas valve behind a gas stove before taking burners apart beyond the caps and heads. Smell gas? Don't light a burner to test it. Walk out and phone 911 or the gas company's emergency number from outside.
Call for stove service when
- A burner won't light even after cleaning and drying.
- A coil element or glass zone won't heat or won't shut off.
- The stove sparks constantly after it dries out.
- A receptacle is scorched or melted.
- You smell gas, or see soot on pans or the wall behind the stove.
How a stove repair visit goes
The technician confirms the basics first: gas pressure at the burners, or both legs of power at the terminal block on an electric stove. Then each burner is tested for spark and flame, or each element for resistance and switch output. On most freestanding stoves the cooktop lifts like a car hood, which exposes the switches, spark module and wiring without pulling the whole unit out.
Once the fault is confirmed, you'll hear what failed and the cost. If the anti-tip bracket is missing or the gas connector looks old, we'll point that out too. Nothing gets replaced until you approve it.
Is your stove worth repairing?
Igniters, spark modules, burner switches, coil elements and receptacles are among the least expensive repairs in any kitchen, and they're nearly always worth doing even on an older stove. Glass tops and electronic controls cost more, and on a basic stove that's already seen years of hard use, replacement can be the better value.
Landlords and property managers often weigh a repair against a quick swap for a new unit. We'll give you the repair price and a candid view of the stove's condition so the decision is an easy one.
Why book us for stove repair
Small repairs stay small
Most stove problems come down to inexpensive parts, and a simple igniter job stays exactly that.
A safety look while we're there
Gas connectors, anti-tip brackets and scorched receptacles get checked as part of the visit.
The decision is yours
You'll know the fault and the price before anything is repaired.
See which Northern Virginia ZIP codes we serve, or request a stove repair.
Stove Repair for Owners, Renters and Landlords
Freestanding stoves are the norm in garden apartments, rentals and many older ramblers and split-levels around Springfield, Falls Church and Alexandria, and plenty were installed by a builder or landlord without an anti-tip bracket. If you rent, tell us who approves repairs. Gas stoves connect to the house gas line through a flexible connector; electric models plug into a 240-volt outlet behind the unit.
How a Stove Repair Visit Works
Tell Us What's Wrong
Name the make, add the model number if it is handy, and describe the symptom. A picture of the label inside the door lets us check parts.
Diagnosis at Your Home
The technician tests the appliance along with its power, water, drain, gas or vent connections until the fault is confirmed.
A Price Before Work
We name the failed part and give you the cost of fixing it. Work starts only after you agree.
Repair and Check
The part is installed and the appliance is run through a cycle so you can watch it working.
Related Repairs
Other appliances, brands and service areas on the site.
Stove problems we repair
The full list of stove faults, from ignition and burner trouble to elements, switches and controls.
- Not Igniting
- Burner Not Heating
- Gas Odor from Stove
- Uneven Heating
- Gas Burner Not Lighting
- Oven Section Not Heating
- Surface Element Not Heating
- Clock / Timer Not Working
- Control Panel Not Responding
- Oven Temperature Inaccurate
- Broiler Not Working
- Self-Clean Not Working
- Storage or Warming Drawer Not Working
- Stove Not Level
- Anti-Tip Bracket Not Installed
- Oven Door Problem
- Stove Moving When Using Oven Door
- Power Cord or Terminal Block Issue
- Burner Weak on One Side of Grate
- Oven Baking Lopsided
- Burner Indicator Light Stuck On
- Wrong Burner Igniting
- Yellow Flame on One Burner Only
- Oven Takes Long Time to Ignite
- Burner Cap Misaligned After Cleaning
- Broil Element Incorrect Position
- Gas Regulator on Stove Failing
- Pilot Light Out (Older Standing Pilot Stove)
- Thermocouple Failure
- No Power for Electronic Ignition
- Stove Top Porcelain Discolored
- Oven Temperature Knob Not Controlling Oven
- Burning Smell from Storage Drawer
- Burner Cap Cracked or Damaged
- Stove Top Surface Chipped or Cracked
- Broil Drawer Issue
- Gas Stove Will Not Self-Ignite at All
- Oven Not Responding to Controls
- Low Gas Pressure Affecting Stove Performance
Stove brands we fix
The stove brands we see in homes and rentals most often, then everything else we cover.
Guides on stove problems
Stove Repair FAQ
Brief answers to what customers most often ask us. Don't see yours? Ask when you call, or add it to the notes when you book online.
Still have a question?
Get in touch with the brand, the symptom and, if you can find it, the model number. Some things we can answer right away; others need a technician in front of the machine.
In everyday speech, yes. Most people say stove, while stores and manuals say range. We use this page for ordinary freestanding units and keep a separate page for the fancier ones: slide-ins, dual-fuel models and pro-style ranges.
See our range repair page →Nearly always the cap or burner head is sitting crooked, or the ports are clogged with food. Clean and dry it and set the cap back so it sits level. A burner that stays dark after that may have a cracked electrode or a loose wire, which a technician can replace quickly.
Move it to a position you know works, using a coil of matching diameter. If it heats there, the first position's receptacle or switch has failed. If it stays cold wherever it's plugged in, the element is burned out, and that's an inexpensive part.
Yes. Standing pilots can be cleaned and adjusted, and thermocouples and safety valves replaced, as long as parts for the model are still made. If they're not, we'll tell you so before any work.
Yes. Tell us who'll be home to open up and who approves spending on the repair; in a rental those are often two different people.