Laundry
Washer Repair for Top-Loaders, Front-Loaders and Stacked Units
Most dead washers are stopped by something small: a clogged pump, a failed lid lock, a worn suspension. We trace it, show you, and put a number on the repair that you okay before any wrench turns.
Booking online? The washer model number in the form lets us check parts before we arrive.
Step one covers the appliance; step two, your contact details. We follow up to book the visit.
Inside a washer: fill, agitate, drain, spin
Every washer runs the same short program. Inlet valves open to let hot and cold water in, a pressure sensor or level switch tells the control when the tub is full, and the motor moves the clothes through the water. Then a pump empties the tub and the drum spins fast to fling water out of the fabric. When one step can't finish, the control usually stops and posts a code rather than moving on.
Top-loaders move clothes with a tall agitator or a low impeller plate at the bottom of the basket. The basket hangs from suspension rods or springs so it can wobble without hitting the cabinet, and a lid switch or lock keeps it from spinning with the lid open. Wear in those rods is a big reason an older top-loader starts walking across the floor.
Front-loaders tumble the laundry in a horizontal drum carried on large rear bearings and a spider arm, with shock absorbers underneath and a rubber boot sealing the door. They use far less water, which is why they're so sensitive to too much soap, and the door locks electrically for the whole cycle. Direct-drive motors on many LG and Samsung models skip the belt entirely, while other brands still turn the drum with a belt and pulley.
- Top-load agitator
- Top-load impeller
- Front-load
- Stacked washer-dryer
- Compact 24-inch
- All-in-one washer-dryer
Washer trouble, sorted by symptom
Start with what the machine is doing. Each symptom points to a short list of parts, and the technician narrows it to one before quoting.
- Water stays in the tub after the cycle
- Sock or coin in the pump filter, kinked drain hose, failed drain pump, clogged standpipe or house drain
- Drains but won't spin fast
- Load out of balance, lid lock or door lock not confirming, worn belt or motor coupling, sudsing from too much detergent
- Shakes hard or moves on the floor
- Unleveled feet, worn suspension rods or shock absorbers, broken counterweight, shipping bolts left in a new front-loader
- Leaks during the fill
- Split fill hose, loose hose washer, cracked inlet valve body, overfilling from a faulty pressure sensor
- Leaks during the drain or spin
- Torn door boot, cracked pump housing, loose drain hose clamp, tub seal failure on older top-loaders
- Grinding or roaring as the drum spins
- Failed tub bearings, object caught between drum and tub, worn drive pulley
- Door won't unlock at the end
- Water still in the tub, door lock motor stuck, control waiting on a sensor reading
- Clothes come out smelling musty
- Residue in the door boot and drain pump filter, too much or the wrong detergent, door kept shut between loads
A few things you can check yourself
- Look up the error code in the owner's manual or the sheet taped inside the back panel. Many codes point straight at the drain, the door lock or an unbalanced load.
- On a front-loader, open the small access door at the lower front and clean the pump filter over a shallow pan and towels. Expect more water than you think.
- Straighten the drain hose and make sure it isn't pushed too far down the standpipe, which can siphon water out during the fill.
- Run a cleaning cycle with a washer cleaner, wipe out the folds of the door boot, and leave the door or lid open between loads so the drum can dry.
- Redistribute a heavy load. A single bath mat or a waterlogged comforter can keep the washer from reaching full spin speed on its own.
Safety first: Unplug the washer before opening any panel. If the tub is full, bail or drain it slowly into a bucket, since a pump filter can release a lot of water at once. Close both supply valves before touching a leaking hose, and if water has reached an outlet, shut off the breaker first.
Time to book a washer technician when
- The tub still holds water after you've cleared the pump filter and checked the hose.
- You find water under the machine, in the drain pan, or on the ceiling below the laundry.
- The drum grinds, roars or shows play when you rock it by hand.
- The door stays locked with no water inside.
- You smell burning or the breaker trips during the cycle.
What happens during a washer repair call
The technician usually runs the washer in its service or diagnostic mode first, which lets them fire the valves, pump, lock and motor one at a time and read stored fault history. From there it's a short step to the part that isn't responding, and a meter or pressure test confirms it before anything gets ordered.
In a closet or stacked install, the machine may need to come out onto a protected floor, and on a stacked pair the dryer sometimes has to come off the top first. Let us know about that when you book. You'll see what failed and get a price, and the repair doesn't start until you approve it.
Fixing a washer versus buying another
Pumps, lid locks, door locks, inlet valves, belts, suspension parts and door boots are straightforward repairs and usually worth it. The expensive failures are tub bearings on a front-loader, which often mean taking the whole drum apart, and control or motor boards on a machine that's already had several repairs.
In a townhouse or condo, getting an old washer out and a new one up the stairs or through a closet door is its own project, and stacked pairs must match each other. That tips many marginal cases toward repair. When a bearing job or a failed tub makes the numbers unreasonable, we'll tell you.
Why people call us for washer repairs
Diagnostic mode first
Running the machine's own test sequence shows which component isn't answering, so we're not swapping parts on a hunch.
Upstairs laundry, handled carefully
We plan for closets, stacked pairs and finished floors below, and we look at hoses and drain pans while the machine is open.
Parts matched to your model
We order by model number, use the maker's own part when it can be had, and say so when an equivalent goes in.
See which Northern Virginia ZIP codes we serve, or request a washer repair.
Washer Repair for Owners, Renters and Landlords
So many Northern Virginia townhouses and condos put the washer on an upper floor, often in a hall closet or stacked under the dryer, that a leak is rarely just a wet floor. It's a stain spreading across the ceiling below. That's why we ask about drain pans and hoses on every washer call. Humid summers also make it harder for a front-loader's door gasket to dry out between loads.
How a Washer Repair Visit Works
Tell Us What's Wrong
Name the make, add the model number if it is handy, and describe the symptom. A picture of the label inside the door lets us check parts.
Diagnosis at Your Home
The technician tests the appliance along with its power, water, drain, gas or vent connections until the fault is confirmed.
A Price Before Work
We name the failed part and give you the cost of fixing it. Work starts only after you agree.
Repair and Check
The part is installed and the appliance is run through a cycle so you can watch it working.
Related Repairs
Other appliances, brands and service areas on the site.
Washer problems we handle
Every washing machine fault on our list, from drainage and spin trouble to leaks, locks and control faults.
- Not Spinning
- Not Draining
- Making Loud Noise
- Won't Start
- Leaking Water
- Not Filling with Water
- Door Won't Lock
- Vibrating Excessively
- Error Codes Displayed
- Not Agitating
- Clothes Not Getting Clean
- Washer Smells Bad
- Mold in Drum or Gasket
- Musty Odor Transferring to Clothes
- Door Gasket Mold
- Not Rinsing Properly
- Too Much Suds / Oversudsing
- Detergent Not Dispensing
- Fabric Softener Not Dispensing
- Bleach Dispenser Clogged
- Spin Cycle Stopping Early
- Not Completing Full Cycle
- Cycle Taking Too Long
- Pausing Mid-Cycle
- Filling Too Slowly
- Overfilling with Water
- Standing Water After Cycle
- Not Draining Completely
- Grinding Noise During Wash
- Banging Noise During Spin
- Squealing Noise
- Clicking Noise During Cycle
- Burning Smell from Washer
- Door Won't Open After Cycle
- Door Glass Cracked or Broken
- Door Seal / Gasket Torn or Damaged
- Leaking from Bottom
- Leaking from Door
- Leaking from Back of Washer
- Leaking from Detergent Drawer
- Drum Not Turning
- Agitator Not Working
- Agitator Dogs / Cogs Worn Out
- Drum Bearing Making Noise
- Drive Belt Broken
- Motor Failure
- Drain Pump Failure
- Water Inlet Valve Failure
- Lid Switch / Lock Failure
- Control Board Failure
- Water Temperature Wrong
- Washing Cold Only / No Hot Water
- Clothes Getting Damaged in Washer
- Tearing or Ripping Clothes
- Clothes Coming Out Tangled
- Soap Residue on Clothes
- Fabric Softener Spots on Clothes
- Rust Stains on Clothes
- Washer Won't Turn On
- Display / Control Panel Not Working
- Buttons Not Responding
- Pausing Randomly During Cycle
- Tripping Circuit Breaker
- Shaking the Floor During Spin
- Washer Moving Across Floor During Spin
- Not Balancing Load During Spin
- UE / Unbalance Error (LG)
- OE / Drain Error (LG)
- LE / Motor Error (LG)
- DE / Door Error (LG)
- 5E / SE Drain Error (Samsung)
- F21 Drain Error (Whirlpool)
- F5 / dL Lid Lock Error (Whirlpool / GE)
- Drum Bearing Replacement Needed
- Shock Absorbers Worn Out
- Spider Arm / Drum Support Broken
- Pump Filter Clogged
Washer brands we repair
Popular washer makers first, each with its own page of model notes; every other brand we repair follows.
- Samsung washer repair
- LG washer repair
- Whirlpool washer repair
- Maytag washer repair
- GE Appliances washer repair
- Speed Queen washer repair
- Electrolux washer repair
- Bosch washer repair
Guides on washer problems
Washer Repair FAQ
Brief answers to what customers most often ask us. Don't see yours? Ask when you call, or add it to the notes when you book online.
Still have a question?
Get in touch with the brand, the symptom and, if you can find it, the model number. Some things we can answer right away; others need a technician in front of the machine.
Put the washer in a drain pan piped to a drain if it isn't already in one, replace rubber fill hoses with braided stainless ones, and know where the supply valves are. A leak detector on the floor beside the machine is cheap insurance. If you see a stain on the ceiling below, shut the valves and stop using the washer until the source is found.
A little water always stays behind in the door boot and the pump area, and in warm, humid months it doesn't dry out on its own. Use HE detergent in the amount the manual suggests, run a cleaning cycle monthly, clean the pump filter, and prop the door open between loads. If the smell persists, the boot may be torn or holding debris in a fold.
Most often the control decided the load was out of balance and cut the speed to protect itself. A single heavy item is a classic cause. If balanced loads do the same thing, the lid or door lock may not be confirming, or on belt-drive machines the belt or motor coupling may be slipping.
Yes. Many are serviced from the front, but some repairs need the pair pulled out or unstacked. Measure the closet opening, note whether there's a drain pan, and tell us if your building has rules about service hours or elevator use for contractors.
Laundry in condos and townhouses →If the washer is still under the maker's warranty, start with the manufacturer, since we're an independent service company and not an authorized center for any brand. Once the warranty has run out, we diagnose it at your home and quote the repair before any work.